Why exosomes are an exciting breakthrough in skincare
Like many skincare enthusiasts who've dived headfirst into the Fountain of Youth, I've done almost everything I can to achieve clear, glowing skin, including chemical peels, microneedling and laser treatments.
The downside is that my skin is a hot mess for a few days after a treatment. Redness makes me turn off my video camera for work meetings and slams the breaks on my social life for at least a week. Plus, my raw, sensitive skin feels as bad as it looks during the healing process.
So, when I heard that some plastic surgeons, dermatologists and med spas now offer exosome skincare after procedures like laser treatments and microneedling, I was curious about the prospect of reduced redness and faster healing next time I visit the Fountain of Youth, or, in other words, get an aesthetic skin treatment done. And I'm not the only one who's getting excited about exosomes.
Breakthroughs in exosome skincare are so promising that Time Magazine named Rion Aesthetics' Intense Serum (Plated)™ Skin Science one of "The Best Inventions of 2024" that are changing how we live.
What are exosomes?
Exosomes are tiny sacs that cells release to signal other cells to regenerate, reduce inflammation and accelerate healing. These exosomes can come from algae, plants, stem cells or, as is the case for (Plated)™, from blood bank donations.
Ryan Diederich, MD, is among the many plastic surgeons nationwide using exosome serums to help patients' skin post-procedure. He witnessed the transformative potential of exosomes after the formula made a patient's post-laser and microneedling redness vanish.
"We're seeing this over and over where people use it, and they're just healing quicker," said Dr. Diederich. "It's incredible."
Many plastic surgeons offer their patients laser treatments on a standalone basis or as part of a comprehensive facelift package that includes skin rejuvenation. Now, they can also provide topical exosome skincare products afterward to promote healing. They can also offer it with microneedling to make the treatment more effective. Exosome science is big news for skincare enthusiasts like me and anyone considering getting an aesthetic skin procedure.
Beyond healing, topical exosomes have broader applications to improve skin quality when used as regular skincare.
"It can help with skin rejuvenation and possibly hair restoration," said Dr. Diederich. "There are even anti-inflammatory effects that can happen."
Early research and some anecdotal reports suggest exosomes could help with hair restoration.
Cautions and FDA regulations
Despite their rising popularity, it's a good idea to approach exosome-based skincare products cautiously.
A scientific journal review earlier this year stated, "While the potential of exosomes in the field of plastic surgery is gaining attention, it is essential to note that no exosome-based products have secured FDA approval as of yet."
Andrew Rosenthal, MD, emphasized the importance of careful exosome use.
"Exosomes are not regulated by the FDA," said Dr. Rosenthal. "They're not approved currently in any way, shape or form for injection. They can be used in certain topicals, but that's the only place where they can be used."
Why regulation matters
The issue of regulation is especially critical because of the potent biological activity that exosomes can trigger.
"You're trying to ramp things up and increase cell division and everything else," said Dr. Rosenthal. "But sometimes, bad things happen to the body when cell division goes awry. You have to be careful, and that's why the FDA is being judicious about this and why it needs to be appropriately studied and regulated. You can't inject them."
It's important to note that using exosomes in conjunction with microneedling is acceptable.
Real-world results
The effects of topical exosomes can be undeniably impressive.
"I'll be excited to see the future of exosomes," said Dr. Diederich. "They really do seem to be a game changer at this point."
As enthusiasm for exosome skincare grows for healing post-procedure skin, the field remains new. Plastic surgeons acknowledge that exosomes hold great promise but caution that more research and regulation are necessary.
"It's in its infancy; more is going to come, and it seems like it's going to be a very promising technology," said Dr. Rosenthal. "There are a lot of people running to do this, but it's going to be a bit before we have things that are both efficacious and safe."
So far, topical exosome skincare seems safe and generally effective, according to Dr. Rosenthal.
Choosing an exosome skincare brand
You're in good company if you're interested in adding topical exosomes to your skincare routine. Many people are doing this to achieve more rejuvenated, youthful-looking skin. Prices vary based on brand, but the aforementioned (Plated)™ serum sells for approximately $250 for a 0.5-ounce container.
It isn't easy for a consumer to know which exosome skincare brand to buy, or at least this was my experience. In my search for exosome skincare products, I sought companies that were transparent about their sourcing information, specifically where the exosomes originated. I also wanted clinical evidence demonstrating the effectiveness of their product. This information was not readily available for all the products I looked into.
One way to integrate an effective exosome product into your skincare routine or next post-procedure healing journey is to find an ASPS member you trust who carries an exosome skincare line and buy it directly from their office. This approach increases the likelihood that your journey with exosome-based skincare products is effective, informed and tailored specifically to your needs. Chances are that if the provider you trust carries exosome topicals, they will have looked into their source and effectiveness. Still, it's wise to do your own research as well.
As a skincare enthusiast, I'm excited about topical exosomes capable of accelerating my healing after my next microneedling or laser procedure. I might even – once I recover from sticker shock – start using exosomes in my at-home skincare routine, too, considering that it's the best skincare addition to the Fountain of Youth that I've seen recently.
To find a qualified plastic surgeon for any cosmetic or reconstructive procedure, consult a member of the American Society of Plastic Surgeons. All ASPS members are board certified by the American Board of Plastic Surgery, have completed an accredited plastic surgery training program, practice in accredited facilities and follow strict standards of safety and ethics. Find an ASPS member in your area.
